Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always shaped its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their children are reluctant to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these tales and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
